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PostPosted: 15-Dec-2017 7:37 
Mazda lover
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Location: Novi Sad
Automobil: MAZDA 3 1.6i/TE BK 2003.
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i ja sam neki dan izlemio rele :)

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hvala kolega bat_Vite :) :care :palac


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PostPosted: 15-Dec-2017 9:01 
jr. Mazdaš
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Odličan rad i fotoizveštaj!
Pozdrav!

(Excellent work and photoreport!
Greetings!)

:drive:

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PostPosted: 03-Jan-2018 10:00 
Mazdaš u povoju

Joined: 03-Dec-2017 11:43
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Pozdrav,imao istih problema kao i autor prvog posta u ovoj temi Emirs,jedan od razloga zašto sam se i registrirao na ovaj forum,uglavnom problem je riješen,pregorila žarulja u pretincu od suvozača :lol


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PostPosted: 16-Aug-2018 8:06 
Mazdaš u povoju

Joined: 24-May-2018 10:06
Posts: 5
Location: Krusevac
Automobil: Mazda 3 BK 1.6
Lokacija: Krusevac
Cao svima ne znam koliko je jos ova tema aktuelna ali gasi mi se i pali cela kontrolna tabla, kada udarim jace rukom ispod kasete kod suvozacevih nogu ona proradi i sve tako u krug, vadio sam ispod dzekove i isprobavao obak narandzasti 200 vracao i namestao i nista, a od skoro pocelo da mi izlazi da su mi vrata otvorena a sva su zatvorena, sta da radim, verovatno gubi negee kontakt ali gde? Inace vozim mazdu 3 bk 2004 1,6. Hvala!


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PostPosted: 16-Aug-2018 8:17 
Mazdolicus Maximus
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Joined: 25-Oct-2015 12:57
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Automobil: Mazda 3 1.6CD 2012(85KW-116ks)
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Provjeri BCM module ;) , morat ces cijelu kasetu skinut .


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PostPosted: 17-Aug-2018 10:04 
Mazdaš u povoju

Joined: 24-May-2018 10:06
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Location: Krusevac
Automobil: Mazda 3 BK 1.6
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Sta je BCM modul? :D


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PostPosted: 17-Aug-2018 11:56 
Mazdolicus Maximus
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Mrchaki wrote:
Sta je BCM modul? :D
Primitvni kompjuter/racunar koji kontolise svjetla , prekidace , senzore itd itd . , uglavnom sve preko njega ide.

Cesto ode TNS relej , a on pali i gasi inst tablu , svjetla prednja i zadnja i osvjetljenje tablice.


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PostPosted: 18-Aug-2018 10:15 
Mazdaš u povoju

Joined: 24-May-2018 10:06
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Location: Krusevac
Automobil: Mazda 3 BK 1.6
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Znaci on se nalazi iznad kasete? Hala puno druze, za sada imam samo problem da mi svetli otvorena vrata i ako nisu otvorena i gasi mi se svetlo na kontrolnoj tabli a svetla mi rade tj farovi. Hvala jos jednom.


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PostPosted: 18-Aug-2018 10:57 
Mazdolicus Maximus
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Joined: 25-Oct-2015 12:57
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Automobil: Mazda 3 1.6CD 2012(85KW-116ks)
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:palac

Evo ti sa drugog foruma o cemu se tacno radi , ako je to a vjerovatno jeste ;)

Quote:
Pozdrav,
Ovako, budući da sam nedavno naletio na problem sa prilično skupim standardnim rješenjem, a istraživanjem uvidio da je puno ljudi već se susrelo s time, Napisao sam tutorial rješenje koje, bar se meni čini, je dosta jednostavnije od sličnih koji se nađu online, ili poprilično skupog rješenja u ovlaštenom servisu (Zamjena PJB - passenger junction box-a , iliti BMC-a).
Budući da sam tutor napisao na engleskom za [url="http://www.mazda3club.com"]www.mazda3club.com[/url], tako ću ga tu i kopirati, pa možda kome pomogne, a možda i netko stigne prevesti za domaću ekipu.Razlog zašto ga stavljam na engleskom je da bi se mogao pojaviti na google searchu ako će ga netko tražiti (iako mislim da je ovaj forum zatvoren za javnost?)

Dakle često odlaze jedan od 2 releja..ili relej prednjih svjetala, ili TNS relay odgovoran za osvjetljenje armaturke, stražnjih svjetala i osvjetljenja tablice (zanimljivo, svo troje je na istom releju). Ovo na slici je relej odgovoran za ovo drugo, TNS, ali za svaki ovaj NAIS relej rješenje je isto, samo trena naći koji je pravi. Simptomi su da se povremeno se paljenjem na prekidaću isti ne pokreću/pale (i s vremeon sve manje i manje) i problem je ili u releju koji se "ljepi" na kontaktima, ili spoju releja u prekidu. Ovako se taj problem može rješiti besplatno, ili u gorem slučaju za 50ak kn kolko košta neki zamjenski relej. Nebi bilo uopće prolem zamjeniti isti, no PJB kad se rastavi ima 3 ploče koje u 2 sloja paralelno zalemljenje kontaktima skroz uokolo, tako da je dosta problem rastaviti ih samo da bi se došlo do točaka gdje je zalemljen relej.

Pa evo na engleskom:

I have also encountered the PJB TNS problem, and tried to work around it, and found something...I found a way easier and better solution then wiring the external relay, a solution that enables You to fix the relay, or in the worse case scenario, replace it with another one without dissasembling the joined boards (from top).

So this can be some sort of Tutorial,

To note, i did try to purchase second hand PJB board for about 100 usd , by matching the serial number, only to find out it has the exact same problem but even it's even worse then mine. My original PJB switched on the tns (tails, board) 70/100 times, and by taping on the pjb, it would switch on.The "new" board failed to engage every time, and i had to hit it hard for 2-3 times for it to work. I bought the second one as i was having my hopes up, but now...i had a spare PJB board to mess around, and in case something goes wrong i still have my "semi working" pjb to be put in car so it is usable.

So as a begining of tutorial there is a:
DISCLAIMER: This as well as other tutorials and help on this page should in no way be responsible if someone messes something up. It is all in good faith with solutions that work /work and tested, and if everything is done correctly, there should be no problems, but in case something goes wrong, the responsibility is solely on the person working the DIY. It all comes back to how confident You are on your skill to make such a repair in order to avoid 1000-1500 usd dealership repair. If You have doubts, have a licenced person to make this fix or take it to the dealership for a repair.

Tutorial:

Tools needed:
-Phillips screwdriver
-Thin flathead screwdriver/rigid pry tool
-soldering iron and solder wire

*have a small size 30/40 amp 5 pin relay ready in case it needs to be replaced
*optional dremel tool (optional)
*clear nail polish (optional)
*silicone based glue (optional)

So first of all, how i fount this out is by doing an external TNS relay fix, and user "djs2571" suggested to disable/remove the stock relay for it not to cause some problems in future. This could be done either by breaking the leads to relay, or removing the relay itself. As i didn't want to ruin stock board and wiring, i decided to pry off the TNS relay. What i found out was..it is NOT a relay at all..its the NAIS "relay" in picture bellow (so You know thich one is the TNS) but this is just a cover/case, and the real relay is inside it. If You gently pry the cover all the way around. If You see the images bellow, You will see how it looks like. In this step You may or may not damage the protective coating on the board, and as long as You dont damage the leads/ break them, its not a problem. You can later fix the coating by aplying a layer of clear nail polish (after the fix has been done) You can also cut around the case with a dremel if You dont want to pry it off (careful not to go too deep and damage the copper spring leads or the internal relay). Now with the cover off, You can clearly see the inside small relay connected to a board with sort of thin sheet leads, that behave sort of like a spring/anti vibration damper (ironicaly, this problem is most probably the result of the vibrations themself). Now the most common problem is contact pin breaking off connection, which may or may not be visible (it was not visible in my case) as it can be covered over by a solder. What You do now is heat up the legs (copper sheets) that go thru the board (you can lift up the relay a bit to reach them) and this will enable solder bellow the board to flow and basicaly reflow/recoonect the broken contact. This part we do out of conveniance, most probably the bad connection is not there, but on the top relay, but we made a preventive fix. Be CAREFULL not to short out any of the leads, and if You do, make sure to remove the contact/solder. If You acidentaly broke off any of the copper thin sheet leads, no problem, You can just resolder them in the point of breaking, careful not to short out the nearby leads.Now the main fix. Heat up each of the contacts on the internal relay to reflow/resolder them. Now test out the repaired board in the car. I did this by flicking the switch 100 times...as i used the worse board, before the fix i got 2/100 without hitting the pjb board..now after the fix, i got 100/100 sucess rate so by statistic, it is fixed. Remove the board again and if everything is ok, put clear coat if you damaged the insulation on the board, put the case cover back on the ralay and use silicone glue to fix it (dont use hot glue as it may melt on a hot day, and dont use hard glues in case You need to dissasemble it in the future. It does not need to be water tight).

In case it is NOT fixed, try to do it again heating the leeds to the board and contacts, and try again. If no sucess, then You will have to go to step 2, which is either cleaning the internal relay, or replacing it. You can chip away the case of the internal relay and clean the contact points but this is delicate job, and maybe its better/easier just to replace it. Unsolder the relay and solder the new one in paying attention to contact positions (have a wiring diagram ready to match the leeds). If You dont have a small relay but a standard automotive one, cut away the thin sheets couple of mm away from the board and solder wires to them. INSULATE this points and run the wires thru one of the "relay seats" on the board cover, and mount the external relay outside the board. Test everything out. You can test the relay in every step by providing 12V to the coil and checking if it engages. Now close everything back up, reassemble and reconnect the PJB and enjoy Your fixed car. This process saved you anything from 100 usd (for ebay second hand PJB that may or may not work) up to 1000-1500 usd/euros on the dealership,
depending on what else they do to diagnose/replace before they find the culprit. They will NOT replace the relay, they WILL replace a 1000 eur/usd PJB board.


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PostPosted: 18-Aug-2018 12:12 
Mazdaš u povoju

Joined: 24-May-2018 10:06
Posts: 5
Location: Krusevac
Automobil: Mazda 3 BK 1.6
Lokacija: Krusevac
Druze hvala ti puno, idem na more pa cu posle toga poceti xa resavam ovaj problem, javljam se kada budem resio, hvala puno.


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PostPosted: 18-Aug-2018 7:32 
Mazda lover
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Joined: 03-Apr-2010 4:32
Posts: 483
Location: Novi Sad
Automobil: MAZDA 3 1.6i/TE BK 2003.
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Imao sam isti problem i resio sam kao sto ti je kolega amar predlozio i bile su moje slike u par postova iznad al sad vidim da su nestale jbg,samo to uradi i sve ce ti raditi ko sat,ukratko treba da skines tablu sa osiguracima i da je otvoris i videces releje i otvaras ga skalpelom lagano da ne bi presekao zicu na kalemu i samo prelemis kontakte i to je to


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PostPosted: 18-Aug-2018 8:24 
jr. Mazdaš
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Joined: 03-Sep-2017 10:29
Posts: 81
Automobil: Mazda 3
Lokacija: Sofia
@lavina, tvoi slike su lepe.
Napravi edit/upload ponovo, ali ne sa postimage "Add image to post", a sa "attach one or more files" sa tvoj računar (laptop).
Attachment:
edit_post_1.jpg

Attachment:
edit_post_2.jpg

Tako će ostati dok forum ima. :)

Mrchaki wrote:
... imam samo problem da mi svetli otvorena vrata...

Isprobaj ovo:
- isključi minus baterije;
- isključi sve konektore (djekove) PJB;
- sačekaj 40 minuta;
- priključi sve konektore PJB;
- priključi minus baterije.


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